Easter in Venice
Easter in Venice was a magnificent time. It was very warm, too warm for a sport coat. Although busy with people, it was less crowded than full season. We walked through the streets a great deal, and with some familiarity, having just been there in December. We stayed on the island of Lido, and took the commuter boat into Venice proper. Cheryl's daughter Jessica was studying in Venice, and was living in an apartment on Lido, so we were there for Easter, to visit Jess, and enjoy a special holiday.
The evening before Easter we had had dinner in a wonderful restaurant, and were have a nice stroll back through the narrow streets, headed for the boats by San Marco, which would bring us back to Lido. It was dark, and there were some people out in the streets, A church bell started to toll. Another joined in, then another, and yet another. Soon every church bell in Venice was ringing. The sound was unforgettable, as the whole city resonated with the clamor and dissonance of so very many bells ringing, some nearby and loud, some faraway.
Soon the sounds stopped as they had begun, bell by bell dropped off, until only a few were heard, and then none. We had in the meantime come upon a church in a square, San Giorgio Maggiore, where a crowd had gathered outside the entrance to the church. I procession came out, with a flame, which then ignited a fire. The gathering was illuminated by light of the fire. A ceremony took place, and the group then followed the priest into the church.
We watched on for a few minutes then continued on our way. Minutes later a man came running through the street with a torch in his hand. He disappeared around a corner.
I have since then asked a number of people about this ritual, but have never found the story behind what we witnessed the night before Easter.
One of the most memorable events came the next morning, as we attended Easter Mass in San Marco. We stood in line for quite some time at an out of the way side entrance, where stern Venetian priests surveyed the crowd. We passed and were allowed in, to one of the most beautiful churches I have seen. We sat in a pew near the front as we, the group who were honored to be a part, were coached by one of the priests on how we were to sing along in support of the service. We rehearsed for quite some time, and were rewarded with the pride of this priests approval that we were ready for the service. The service was magnificent. What I remember most was the sound. The round domes of the basilica cause the choir to sound heavenly, and to be singing from every corner of the church. You could not identify where the sound came from, just from everywhere. The sense of community was wonderful, and as we left the church we were grateful to have had the opportunity to worship in such a historical, and spiritual place.
Unfortunately, there was no photography allowed, so I only have my memories of this service.
Later in the trip we went into one of Jess's favorite bars, where the dark paneled walls were dimly lit. We enjoyed the superb service, and the chance to watch the world go by in San Marco Square.
The Hotel Des Baines on Lido was where we had Easter dinner, eating a magnificent meal out on the terrace, in the most perfect of weather. It was a classic day, and after our wonderful meal we walked down by the beach. The wisteria was in full bloom, and decorated many a house as we strolled through the streets of this resort island off of Venice.
The last evening of our stay we had yet another unforgettable dinner. Earlier in the day we had been walking, and saw a restaurant that we liked, so went in, spoke with the owner, and arranged for dinner there. In Venice, when you reserve for dinner, it is for the evening. That was the case here. We returned with the sun still up, and were seated at a nice table overlooking the square. As twighlight fell, we relaxed into the pace of an evening's meal. The waiter wanted us to select our dinner, and brought a fish out for us to approve. I had gone to the washroom, and returned to find two women with panicked faces, a waiter, and a huge fish in his hands. We settled for perhaps a smaller fish, and the waiter disappeared. Later on, as the lights of the square were illuminated, the waiter brought our prize fish, cooked perfectly. It was an easy two and a half hours before we moved to leave.
As we walked through the dark streets, crossing many small canals that were darkly lit, we saw few people. This was not the crowded streets near San Marco, but rather the isolated streets that few people walked at night. As we rounded a corner we heard a recording of Puccini coming from an upstairs window. We stood there in the dark, watching the water reflect the lights of the ancient buildings, as Puccini poured out his soul. An unforgettable end to our Easter in Venice.
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